North Shore Weekend
- Saturday 7-10am
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Wildersmith on the Gunflint - February 7
-Wildersmith on the Gunflint by Fred Smith
February 7, 2020
It seems the rush of 2020 has not diminished from that of 2019. One twelfth is into the books, and month two is a week old. By weekend’s closing, the Ojibwe, full “Sucker moon” will have reached the pinnacle as winter meanders along in border country.
Speaking of winter, the season looks to be one day longer than usual with this being “leap year.” While calendar settings don’t usually reconcile with what really happens in this neck of the woods, we can look forward to more than another six weeks. Local wood chucks slumbered right through “Ground Hog Day” and likely only dreamed of coming out to see if a shadow was cast.
As an example of seasonal twists and turns, last weekend looked to be reasonably calm with warm temps. In fact the local forecast called for “mostly cloudy.” To show atmospheric prognostication is not a pure science, the upper Trail awoke Sunday morning to a new six inch blanket of “mostly cloudy” in the Wildersmith neighborhood, with the likelihood of even more along the Trail “snow zones.”
In fairness to those who make a living predicting those percentage chances of this or that, I can predict a 100% chance, the elements of “Mother Nature’s” realm are in charge with meteorologists just watching and hoping like the rest of us.
As I mentioned, the area being under a siege of warmer than usual temperatures, a look back at the first few days of February 2019, found the readings along the Mile O Pine were an actual teeth chattering minus 35 to 40F. Here we are three hundred sixty five days later with the mercury hovering near the freezing mark at the time of this scribing last Sunday. Easy math totals a near seventy degree swing. What difference a year can make.
At the same time we Gunflint folk are looking at extended cold season days ahead, there seems to be some spring-like rumblings going on in the bowels of “mother earth.” It seems that those jaw jarring dips, in any number of culvert locations along the Trail, are growing more conspicuous, earlier than expected. If regular Trail travelers haven’t already found out the hard way, a word to the wise, beware, those asphalt undulations are about to test every connection in your vehicle.
The fluffy dropping of last weekend coupled with a visit from “Jack Frost”, has had our wild country in splendid white lace attire. “Mr. Frost” was around for several days doing his version of “Pleine Aire” hoar-frost creations. The actual exhibit found a new touch of crystal being added each day before snow puffs were piled back on each and every forest extremity. I must say, Jack’s effort this time around was an exhibit of “Best in Show”.
There was a howling in the woods last Saturday and it wasn’t from the local wolf pack. An unusual sunny Gunflint winter day of late found the annual running of the Cook County Ridge Riders Snowmobile Club “fun run.” Sledders were a blur as they sped by the Smith shore line, taking advantage of wide open spaces on the Gunflint Lake to burn the cobs out. Hope everyone had good day and return to the start safely!
The club’s next event will be their Drag races beginning at noon, Saturday the 15th on Hungry Jack Lake. Check their website for more details.
In closing, I predict there’s a 100% chance love will be in the air next weekend. It’s a time of bouquets, hearts and chocolates! Be ready to honor your Valentine!
For WTIP, this is Wildersmith on the Gunflint, where every day is great, with wilderness surprises, always in the making!
North Woods Naturalist: Subnivean Microbes
-It's a whole different world underneath our snowpack.
WTIP's CJ Hiethoff talks with naturalist Chel Anderson about subnivean microbes in this edition of North Woods Naturalist.
Superior National Forest Update - January 31
-Superior National Forest Update – January 30, 2020.
Hi. This is Steve Robertsen, education and interpretation specialist with the Superior National Forest and our National Forest Update. We are just about done with the cloudiest January on record, so let’s all hope that February has some of those clear blue skies that Minnesota is famous for.
My personal favorite winter weather is clear bright sun and a temperature of about 10 to 15 degrees. And no wind. 10 to 15 degrees means that snow isn’t wet at all, and I can use green wax on my skis which hard enough that it doesn’t get my hands all sticky. It also is cold enough that you don’t get overheated when you are skiing or snowshoeing, but isn’t so cold that you need spacesuit level outerwear to keep from freezing. I’m firmly in the camp that gets annoyed at weather forecasters on the radio that sound happy and excited by winter weather when it gets into the upper twenties, or even above freezing. It’s winter. It’s supposed to be cold.
The dogs in the Beargrease dogsled race last weekend are mostly in that camp as well. It was a warm race this year, great for race watchers, but a bit harder for the dogs. For those that turned out to watch the race, it was, as it always is, a lot of fun. And for those who were racing, thank you! The Beargrease and the Gunflint Mail Run are always among the highlights of the winter.
The coming weekends offer some fun of a different nature. This weekend, February 1st, the Cook County Snowmobile Club is having its annual fun run. Snowmobile trails may be pretty busy, so be sure to watch out for snowmobiles at road crossing, and if you are on a sled, watch for cars as well as your fellow snowmobilers. Visit the Snowmobile Club’s website at cook county snowmobile club .com for more details.
The following weekend, on February 15th, the North Superior Ski and Run Club is having the annual Pincushion Ski Festival. The Ski and Run Club will have racing and touring in several categories from skate skiing to wooden ski events, followed by skijoring and the Y-Ski Winter Carnival. Visit their website pincushion trails .org for more details. And, while you are online, visit the National Forest website too and download a georeferenced map of the Pincushion Trails to your phone. It’s always nice to know where you are.
And, of course, one more time… if you are skiing, make sure you have a Great Minnesota Ski Pass. If you’re snowmobiling, make sure your machine is properly licensed. These passes and licenses pay for the trails you use, and are required on trails like Pincushion Ski Trails and the North Shore State Snowmobile Trail. As much as we may wish otherwise, groomed trails do not spring magically up in the winter woods, and if we want to continue to enjoy them, we have to pay for them.
Roads are in good shape, but watch out as some freezing drizzle is in the forecast. Things can get slippery in a hurry when that happens, and often the ice isn’t visible. Be sure as well to keep your car’s windshield washer tank filled up – you can go through a lot of that with freezing drizzle. Snowbanks on roads are restricting vision at intersections, so be cautious. We’ve had several moose seen recently. Moose are not dumb animals, and they realize that it is lot easier to walk on a plowed road than it is through drifts of snow. Unfortunately, they don’t realize that puts them in danger from cars. It’s great to see a moose, but not so great if the moose is about ten feet from your bumper and you are going forty miles per hour.
There’s a bit of timber being hauled, so you’ll have to watch for trucks as well as moose. If you are in the Gunflint District, trucks are using the Hall Road, Cook County 14, Cook County 60, Firebox Road, Greenwood Road, and the Sunfish Lake Road. On the Tofte District, trucks are using the Trappers Lake/Sawbill Landing Road, Perent Lake Road, The Grade, and Cook County 27.
So, although some may think it’s crazy, I’m going to hope for colder weather, at least for the next month. I think all of us can get behind hoping for more sun, and no more freezing drizzle.
Until next time, this has been Steve Robertsen with the National Forest Update.
Wildersmith on the Gunflint - January 31
-Wildersmith on the Gunflint by Fred Smith
January 31, 2020
The territory heads into February having been on the mild side during January’s last segment. Although we have not been above the freezing mark in this neighborhood, temps in the teens to twenties have been not only comfortable, they’re down right balmy. Clouds having been the order, if there‘d been any sunshine, one would have been tempted to slip out onto the deck and catch a few rays. Gunflinters are tough!
The snow happening in the upper Gunflint of a week ago did not match the previous weekend. Nevertheless, the Wildersmith fluff accumulated enough to require a few more hours of shoveling, blading and blowing to put the stuff in its place. All of this occurred while I battled my annual episode of the January “crud.”
With the second sled dog event of the season quietly trekking through the Gunflint woods last Monday, and being so unusually warm, one would think it was not as pleasant as the canines’ and their mushers appreciate. These furry athletes have a much greater affection for minus temperatures, so there was likely slower daytime running and more aggressive running in the darkness hours.
It seems certain, this leg of the 36th John Beargrease Marathon, through the Gunflint wilderness, was a laborious test of their love to run. One hopes a little cool down blessed them as they headed toward the Grand Portage finish line. See the John Beargrease Sled Dog Race online for more historic insights. By the way this was a qualifying event for The Anchorage/Wasilla to Nome Iditerod.
Speaking of laboring, yours truly has a number of cold season tasks including wintertime brush burning and a few sawdust producing jobs in the wood shop. Notwithstanding the sniffles and coughing, I have been delayed getting at those jobs in order to rake snow off the roof. This past week was my second repetition since the first of 2020.
This necessary, but un-pleasant chore has an equivalent value similar to cleaning up the woods after a wind storm. Of my favorite things to do in wild country, it’s about a minus one, on a range of ten.
“Survival of the fittest” and “being the cleverest” are buzz slogans in our “wild neighborhood.” I observed an interesting happening confirming being clever is a necessity of life in some situations. This circumstance involved a couple blue jays at the feed trough and a ham bone.
The jays were recently hanging out with many of the neighborhood blue bully clan feasting on seeds, corn on the cob, suet, peanut butter cakes and a left over ham as the daily special. Quite a menu Huh! The jays took a keen liking to the greasy residuals on the bone.
For once they seemed actually courteous, lining up one after another to peck away at the goodies. This went on for better part of an hour until the boney process was nearly bare.
As final pecks appeared to be in order, two of the “Gunflint Blues” were on the tray together, within inches of each other. One, appeared to have rank over the other, perched right on the bone, and stabbed a chunk of remaining soft tissue. Proudly, it straightened up in front of its’ kin showing off the prized element.
Bad decision! Before it could lift off, the other cocked its head, and promptly pecked the porky treat right from the other’s beak, going air-borne in an instant.
It was not exactly an act of picking the other’s pocket as one faced-up and without hesitation, pilfered right in front of the victims’ eyes..
This avian antic was obviously “clever,” if not more, plainly opportunistic. In the animal world, like many human situations, “survival” incorporates being clever and opportunistic. This wild country incident was an amusing example, as it revealed itself at the Wildersmith critters’ lunch line.
For WTIP, this is Wildersmith, on the Gunflint Trail, where every day is great, as all of Nature has meaning and beauty!
North Woods Naturalist: Cold weather courting and snow depth
-What do cold weather courting and snow depth have in common? Great Horned Owls have to carefully manage both of those things this time of year. WTIP's CJ Heithoff talks with naturalist Chel Anderson to find out more in this edition of North Woods Naturalist.
Wildersmith on the Gunflint - January 24
-Wildersmith on the Gunflint by Fred Smith
January 24, 2020
Our Gunflint January is heading into its’ last stanza, swooshing along like cross country skis on a border country trail. I guess the age of reason is lost when contemplating the way time slips away.
We’ve reached the meteorological coldest point of the season in this part of the world with one month of the winter calendar into the books. By next week at this time, the beam of light from the February express will be barreling toward the station.
That being said, for those longing for warmth of spring, conditions will begin slowly ticking upwards as we’ve already gained a half hour of daylight since the Solstice. A sure sign “Zigwan” (spring) will eventually come, arrived in the mail the other day as I received the first seed and plant catalog.
However, at this point we north woods folks know what can happen over the next three to four months. We have yet to experience a long Polar Vortex and snow in May is almost always a possibility.
The recent “snowmageddon” was intimidating throughout the Arrowhead with a variety of new amounts ranging up to nearly twenty inches. It made for difficult travel conditions, and for the first time since we’ve moved here, there was a warning of “no Travel advised” on the Gunflint Trail during the height of the storm.
Along the Trail, depths ranged from near fifteen inches in the mid-Trail area to six inches up toward end of the Trail at Seagull Lake. Here in the Wildersmith neighborhood, the Smith’s recorded nine.
Since there’s no business like “snow” business, folks needing the white stuff to sustain their cold season livelihood are ecstatic. For those of us who have to plow, scoop and pull it off roof tops, it’s becoming a challenge finding room to stack it all.
While yours truly remains passionate about the build-up and beauty of crystallized liquid, I must confess my aging body groans a little when removal occurrences become too frequent. A couple inches are as bad as a foot, you have to deal with both, and this neighborhood gets frequent nuisance snows requiring attention. This being noted, Gunflint Trail life still beats the mayhem of urban living, and heat of more preferred retirement locales.
As usual, those living along the Trail, in the higher elevations “Snow Zone”, have had much more to date. At Wildersmith our cumulative total is sixty inches since the fluff was first measureable in October.
Heavy snow did not deter fisher people on the opening day of lake trout season. Mini settlements of temporary shacks sprung up on area lakes like spring plant shoots on a sunny day. The first anglers sped by Wildersmith before daylight last Saturday morning.
My good friend down the Mile O Pine, and a couple buddies from Metropolis, report the ice on Gunflint Lake, where they were located, at fifteen inches with minimal slush difficulties.
While their catching fortunes were not too exciting, the adventure of ice fishing is always great. I’m told trout they pulled through the hole were small and not prolific, but its’ likely those circumstances could change at any moment. Other anglers surely hit some big ones on at least some of the 1500 lakes in the county. Regardless of catching fate, the lure of the search will go on as it has for countless centuries.
An interesting critter combination showed up for hand-outs recently. The foxy gal was here as usual and grabbed her treat, retreating some distance to gnaw of the frozen fowl. It was at this moment a pair of whiskey jacks swooped in attempting to grab a share of the goodies. In this case these treats were left-over hash browns.
They had barely pecked up a few shreds when the fox took notice and ran them off, once again, scarfing up another poultry part and moving a way to enjoy. This scene was repeated again with members of the local blue jay clan barging in with their gray cousins only to be dispatched once more. In the end, my furry friend prevailed but it was not a pleasant dining experience having to eat and run repeatedly.
As I digest this happening, I’m wondering if those Jacks (gray jays) were following that fox, knowing wherever it traveled, there was likely a morsel of nutrition to be had, perhaps like ravens and vultures pursuing land based critters to a kill site
Sadness prevails again this week along Gunflint Lake as word on the passing of another longtime resident has been received. Barbara Graham of Des Moines, Iowa and a seasonal resident on the Mile O Pine passed away on Wednesday, January 15th in hospice care at the age of 97.
Barbara and husband John, who preceded her in death, were among the earliest residents along Gunflint Lake on the MOP, dating back into the early 1960’s. Barbara was a charming friend and neighbor. She so loved this special place, Barbara and her family have supported many causes along the Gunflint Trail with gracious philanthropic acts of kindness.
Gunflint Community condolences are extended to her family and many friends.
For WTIP, this is Wildersmith, on the Gunflint Trail, where we savor the majesty of every day in this natural world!
North Woods Naturalist: Marvels of January
-From bear cubs being born to artic smoke and steam devils, there's plenty happening in the natural world as we approach the end of January.
WTIP's CJ Heithoff talks with naturalist Chel Anderson about the marvels of January in this edition of North Woods Naturalist.
Wildersmith on the Gunflint - January 17
-Wildersmith on the Gunflint by Fred Smith
January 17, 2020
Gunflint territory has settled into normal winter as we pass the half way point of month one. Last weekend was more like it should be with a frigid reminder last Saturday morning.
In the twilight of morning, while out and about working for the Gunflint Mail Run Event, temps of twenty-five to thirty-five below zero were encountered along the Byway.
It was truly a premier North-country time as Sol was brightening in the east and the colossal “Great Spirit” moon hovered in the west. While us north woods folk savor every diurnal moment, this one seemed special beyond any in recent memory. I can’t come up with enough descriptors to pay homage to the serene beauty. Our natural world seemed to be standing still in frozen silence under full lunar boldness. Magnificent is an understated word for the feeling of my being in this special time and place.
Meanwhile, the glory of this day gleamed down on activities going on in the Gunflint surroundings. Joy and elation was at fever pitch in the mid-Trail area as sled dogs and their mushers readied for a weekend in the snow and cold.
It was organized mayhem with nearly three hundred barking canine athletes waiting their turn to be released at the start line for a run through wild country. It was all handlers and volunteers could do to control this boundless energy and the will to run.
Amazingly, when they were off, like a rocket, it was suddenly all business. The yelping conversation ceased with total effort focused on moving on! What a delightful event with a hats-off tribute to their loving mushers, supportive handlers and veterinary care-givers. If one has never been present at an event such as this, it ought to be added to your bucket list.
On a related note, kudos is extended to the race organizers and great folks at Trail Center Restaurant and Lodge for their tremendous work in putting this together. Further, in addition to this leadership, these tireless folks couldn’t do it without dozens of volunteers. For all great events in backcountry America “it takes a community”, and this Gunflint Community plus many other sled dog enthusiasts made it happen. Thanks to all!
Oh, and by the way, a big thanks and congratulations to all the teams. Added is a salute to the winning teams. If listeners haven’t already heard, the 100 mile, twelve dog class was won by Ryan Redington, of Skagway, Alaska, for the fourth consecutive year, and the 65 mile, eight dog event was won by Joanna Oberg, of Grand Marais, formerly of Northwestern Ontario.
In other news, more activity in the north woods gets underway this weekend as the day anglers have been long awaiting has arrived. Barking of dogs in Gunflint territory will have been traded for snowmobiles toting gear to that special place and ice augers boring a hole in the lake, all in search of a prize trout. Good luck to all and be safe on that ice!
In the Wildersmith neighborhood, we’ve had a minor eruption of furry animal activity. While our usual winter Pine Marten visitors have been few and far between, without advanced notice a pair finally showed up last weekend. They frolicked around their feeding stations and each enjoyed a poultry part before scampering off through the fluff. Hope they remember where they can always get a treat.
And frequencies of fox visits have stepped up too. One early morning before daylight, on a trip to the woodshop, I was startled into a rapid heartbeat when the friendly red gal suddenly snuck up behind me, glad it wasn’t a wolf. As I jumped, she too was startled, don’t know which of us was spooked more.
A Gunflint Lake and Trail note of condolences is extended to the family and friends of Jean Oleheiser. Jean passed away January 3rd. Jean and husband Chuck were longtime residents of the upper Gunflint Trail before retiring to Richfield, MN several years ago. Both Jean and Chuck worked at end of the Trail for a period of time before spending many years employed at the historic Gunflint Lodge. Jean was a consummate baker, friend and a delightful person to be around!
For WTIP, this is Wildersmith, on the Gunflint Trail, where we treasure every day, enjoying the blessing of a quiet natural world!
Superior National Forest Update - January 17
-Superior National Forest Update
January 17, 2020
Hi. This is Renee Frahm, visitor information specialist with the Superior National Forest our National Forest Update. It’s time to take a break from shoveling and cursing the snow, and get out and play in the snow and enjoy the reason we live up here. Winter is great if you have the right mindset, and there have been some studies done which show that the way to chase off winter blues is to get outside and do something!
The snow is perfect for all kinds of recreation right now. We had that wet heavy snow mixed with rain earlier, but that has been mostly covered up with fresh snow. It did create a very solid snow base, so there are good conditions for almost everything from snowshoeing to snowmobiling. The exception are some of the smaller ski trail systems along the shore where they lacked the equipment to break up icy snow in some places.
Maintaining a good trail takes a lot of equipment and a lot of time. Most of our trails are groomed by trail partner organizations who use funds generated by the sales of licenses for snowmobile trails and sales of the Great Minnesota Ski Pass for cross country ski trails. You may have read in the paper that the fund for cross country ski trails is low this year. People are not buying ski passes. This could be due to warmer winters in the southern parts of the state with poor enough skiing conditions that people are unwilling to pay for what may be only a couple of skis a year. It also could be because people just don’t understand why you should pay for cross country skiing. Either way, people need to realize that their passes fund the trails, and without that revenue, we wouldn’t have the skiing opportunities we enjoy now. Minnesota Ski Passes are required for skiing on state grant-in-aid trails, and are now really easy to purchase. You can buy them online at the Minnesota DNR’s website, and print them off yourself at home.
If you plan on skiing this weekend, be aware that there is an eight team high school meet on Saturday January 18th at Pincushion Mountain. The parking area and the trails will be crowded with students and their supporters. Spillover parking will be available on the Gunflint Trail. So, if you are going to cheer on the Cook County Nordic Team, that’s great! If you are planning a peaceful ski through a quiet winter woods, you may want to look at alternative trails.
We’ve had some fun at the Forest Service these past two weeks with students from the University of Minnesota – Twin Cities Fish and Wildlife Club. They’ve been volunteering to help with our lynx survey program, which means they’ve been logging miles on snowshoes tracking lynx and collecting lynx scat. The scats are later analyzed for DNA, which allows us to recognize individual animals and even lynx family relationships. This helps us understand where lynx live, and how they are using our forest resource. So, thank you to all these young volunteer wildlife biologists!
If you are driving out to snowshoe, you’ll find that the roads are in pretty good shape. In fact, in many places they are smooth enough to trick you into thinking you can go fifty miles per hour. And, while you can go that fast, you’ll also find you can’t stop if you are going that fast. Some of the hills headed toward the lake are particularly treacherous – coming downhill from the Oberg Trailhead you’ll find you may need to keep your speed down below twenty miles an hour if you don’t want to toboggan down the slope onto Highway 61 in your car. Just to add to the fun, snowbanks have gotten high enough to hide the deer looking to cross the road, and it seems like there are more coyotes and wolves wandering on the roads who have decided walking a plowed road is easier than wading through chest high snow in the woods. Slower speeds on the road will give you more time to react and avoid animal collisions.
Of course, you also have to be aware of logging trucks in the woods. On the Gunflint District, log hauling is taking place on the Hall Road, Cook County 14, Cook County 60, Firebox Road, Greenwood Road, and the Sunfish Lake Road. On the Tofte District, trucks are using Hoist Lake Road, Lake County 7, Trappers Lake/Sawbill Landing Road, Perent Lake Road, The Grade, Cook County 27 and Cook County 8.
So, don’t let the winter blues or the gray skies take over your life. Go out and take over winter instead, whether it is on skis, snowmobiles, snowshoes, or armed with a fishing rod and ice auger. Trout season outside of the BWCAW opens this Saturday. Before you know it, the groundhog will be telling us how many weeks of winter are left, so don’t let it slip away without enjoying some good old outdoor winter fun. This is the best part of the season, so go have fun in the snow!
Until next time, this has been Renee Frahm with the National Forest Update.
North Woods Naturalist: A look back at 2019
-2019 was certainly one of the wettest years in recent memory.
Naturalist Chel Anderson reflects on the year that was and talks winter ephemera with WTIP's CJ Heithoff in this edition of North Woods Naturalist.