Wildersmith on the Gunflint
Contributor(s):
Fred Smith
Fred Smith, a native Iowan re-located to the wilderness of border country at the end of the century, has been writing of happenings in the upper Gunflint territory for going on eight years, first with the local paper, and since December 2008 for WTIP North Shore Community Radio. Fred feels life in the woods is extraordinary, and finds reporting on it to both a reading and listening audience a pleasurable challenge. Since retirement as a high school athletic administrator from Ankeny High School, Ankeny Iowa in 1999, the pace of Fred's life has become less hectic but nevertheless, remains busy in new ways with many volunteer activities along the Trail. Listen at your convenience by subscribing to a podcast.
Arts, cultural and history features on WTIP are made possible in part by funding from the Minnesota Arts and Cultural Heritage Fund. Check out other programs and features funded in part with support from the Heritage Fund.
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Wildersmith on the Gunflint Oct. 28, 2009
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The northland leaves a typical October and enters the 11th hour of 2009. Ready set go, here is November and before we can blink our eyes, the “full beaver” moon will dance its luminous beams over the wilderness.
October bids farewell as snowshoe hares and weasels are almost white and most areas of the territory have been blanketed with snow two or three times. In the last week, cold breezes have been dusting off golden tamarack needles in rapid order, while snow buntings, winter’s welcoming committee, are busy leading traffic up and down the Trail.
As November has crept up on the forest, there is a skim of ice on swamp waters along the Trail, and it won’t be too many more days until the smaller lakes will begin to crinkle with whispers about their new winter coat.
As I finished some last pre-winter chores, I had to go into the lake retrieving wildfire sprinkler system lines. Believe me, the feeling of Gunflint Lake water is downright cold, with the temperature hovering in the high 30s.
There has been any number of dwelling fires through out the county recently, and this end of the Trail was not spared the misery when another tragedy occurred last Thursday night. A one-unit, two-cabin complex at the historic Gunflint Lodge was destroyed in a late night/early morning blaze.
Fortunately, the nine occupants residing in the cabins escaped injury as the Gunflint Trail Volunteer Fire Department arrived within minutes of the call and poured water on the inferno for several hours. Full cause remains under investigation, but early estimates are that an overheated fireplace chimney may have set things off. A quiet night in terms of wind was a blessing for firefighters as they had little difficulty in keeping the blaze from spreading to adjoining buildings and the nearby forest.
Owners Bruce and Sue Kerfoot are thankful that there were no injuries, in addition to being grateful to their staff and firefighters for their skill and preparedness during the emergency. Plans are already under way to rebuild the lost facilities.
Another sign of the swiftly warming planet was confirmed again the other day when some folks over on Loon Lake observed a handsome cardinal at their feeder. This is not the first sighting of the red birds; one hung out around Heston’s Lodge a couple winters ago. Usually not ranging this far north, they have also been seen in Grand Marais.
It is evident that something other than the beauty of this place is drawing them to more northerly latitudes. So the happiness of getting to see one is tainted by the sadness of knowing that drastic atmospheric happenings are negatively impacting our Mother Earth so quickly for all inhabitants.
On a happier note, not everything is being degraded by mankind. In fact the hundreds of members of the Gunflint Trail Historical Society (GTHS) are proudly marching on with the preservation of life gone by in their museum/nature center project. The construction season at the nostalgic Chik Wauk Lodge and along its beautiful trail system has wound down for the year with all planned items being completed.
Now, activities continue behind the scenes as artifacts and history are being built into displays for installation when the frost goes out next spring. GTHS museum committee members are full speed ahead with the design folks at Split Rock Studios, whittling down a long checklist before grand opening next July Fourth. Meanwhile, fundraising efforts and plans for operations and staffing continue at a hectic pace.
The GTHS will begin a search for the museum/nature center site manager in early January. Interested applicants should be checking the website for application details by year’s end, www.gunflinttrailhistoricalsociety.org.
Hoping all have a safe Halloween weekend, keep on hangin’ on and savor the dwindling fall season!
Program:
Wildersmith on the Gunflint Oct. 21, 2009
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I’m back in the saddle again as the old-time western tune by Gene Autry declares. Not really in the saddle, but back at Wildersmith, sitting at the keyboard.
Thanks again to the “woofer” over on Hungry Jack Lake for covering my brief hiatus. The Smiths took a week away from the wilderness to visit kids, grandkids and a few folks from my old stomping grounds in Iowa.
The trip south started in falling snow and ended coming back northward in near spring-like conditions. So we were welcomed with a pleasant trip home on the Trail as opposed to the icy conditions of the weekend before.
The advance of winter was stunted this past weekend, but appears to be re-energizing as we head toward the last week of October. I hope serious happenings hold off a bit longer, as being away for seven days has put me behind on finalization of a few remaining cold season chores. Wonder if this Halloween will be ghostly white like that of 1991?
The deciduous gold in the hills of border country has finally succumbed, and is now layered on the forest floor. A few birch trees are hanging on to their generation of 2009. However, they are in the minority and will soon join a trillion other skeletons lurking over the territory as trick or treat night approaches.
Meanwhile, its tamarack time, and the lush yellow needles are the last to light up our life before crystals of white blanket the northland for good. Several batches are clustered along the Trail standing like byway beacons when Sol is shining down on them. A trip out to see their splendor will be well worth the time.
Speaking more of the welcome home, it is almost a sure bet that some critter from the wild neighborhood will be hanging out along the Mile O’ Pine to greet our return from an extended absence. This time, a handsome warrior from the local wolf pack was spotted not far from our Wildersmith turnoff.
At first sighting in near darkness, the sheer size of the big animal led us to think doe as we approached. Then it stopped in front of the headlights and turned to face us, confirming what it was, big and healthy.
Interestingly enough, it stepped out of the truck’s path and curiously stood looking at this humming metal monster. I stopped after creeping by, and stared into its eyes. Giving a simulated bark, I piqued more of its attention before it made a casual disappearance into the shadows.
Once again, the wild welcome wagon reminded us of how sweet a home in the forest can be.
Thousands know of the Gunflint Trail as a picturesque spectacle. Yet many in the universe aren’t familiar with this wilderness secret. The country will soon become more aware, as the U.S. Department of Transportation Federal Highway Administration recently gave designation to the Trail as a National Scenic Byway. Nancy Seaton of Hungry Jack Outfitters and chairperson of the local Scenic Byway Committee accepted the award in Washington D.C. this past weekend.
The Trail received Minnesota Byway designation in 1999. Since being granted statewide recognition, the local committee has been working long and hard through a rigorous federal application process.
The national designation means that the Trail can now be eligible for federal funds. Future funding grants can be used to help the local committee in its mission to increase awareness of the Trail as a valuable historic and natural resource; assist in preserving the natural environment and historic sites; enhance the quality of life for residents; support sustainable commerce; and, provide nature and history based experiences for both visitors and residents as they travel through the 57-mile community. Congratulations to all who worked to make this happen!
Keep on hangin’ on, and savor both gray and blue days of October in the north woods!
Program:
Wildersmith on the Gunflint Oct. 7, 2009
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We are going into October’s first full week and the past several days have seen the heavens shrouded with gray. In fact, that special full harvest moon was unable to shine down on border country. Some would think it rather dismal, but even with leaden skies and steel gray waters, paradise in this mode remains one to behold.
Welcome rain has been persistent enough to quench the wildfire danger for the time being, but amounts have not been in proportions to start streams running again. Further, temperatures have cooled into more recognizable levels for this time of year.
At Wildersmith, there were a couple mornings of heavy frost as temps dipped into the low to mid-20s. The combination of cold and moisture also brought in two reports of our first snow flurries for the season as September bade farewell on the 30th.
The last of our seasonal friends have departed southward, so the excitement of activity with neighbors has slowed considerably. All will be missed, but time flies, and their return will be here before both we, and they know it.
Enthusiasm now is focused on the wild of the neighborhood. It doesn’t take long for excitement to show itself at our deck-side feed trough. Nutritional offerings of diced French fries, bread cubes, mexi-potato skins slathered in leftover red pasta sauce, and chili have caused a stir in the air during recent days. The gourmet attitude of these winged critters is amazing.
The return of cold weather has initiated soup season for the Smiths, and our first endeavor was that of bean and ham. The remains of the process produced a fine smoked ham bone, complete with fatty bits and marrow.
You just can’t throw it away! So I endeared myself to the jaybirds of the neighborhood and presented the osseous morsel on the untamed food service menu.
The whiskey Jacks are usually waiting for a handout each morning, and once again, they were perched and ready. If the intellect of birds considers “dying and going to heaven,” then this pair must have thought they were on their way as they chomped on the first bites.
Soon their blue cousins joined in the commotion, and for the better part of a couple hours it was a joyful pecking extravaganza. Even had a few black capped chickadees squeeze in for a nibble or two. There was easily more landing and taking off from our border country cuisine port than at Minneapolis/St. Paul International.
The hungry avian turned that bone all ways but loose. If any one of them could have lifted and held the cartilaginous mass in its beak, it would have been carried away from the get-go. But, in the end, the rambunctious gang knocked it off the tray onto the ground below.
Checking later on, it was found that the pork feast was gone. It’s my guess that either a pine marten or fox happened by for what was left. The wilderness hullabaloo over this harvest season bounty soon settled back into calm. Sure was fun to watch the feathery flurry!
With the big blow that ended September, a great many of the scarlet colors have trickled to the earth along the Mile O’ Pine. Yet stunning shades of fading green to brilliant gold are picking up the slack for interested leaf peepers.
Hills and valleys are alive with the sight of Mother Nature’s gilded work. It’s not too late to get out on the Trail and treat yourself to a view of the natural gallery. There will surely be some sunny days ahead, and when Sol is beaming down through the quaking yellow tokens your trip will be breathtaking.
Keep on hangin’ on, and savor a venture into the wild!
Program:
Wildersmith on the Gunflint Sept. 30, 2009
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Historic September is done! Yes, the month that rescued summer, the warmest on record, said its good byes with a little October gray and November gales. The dismal last weekend of number nine wasn’t all bad either, as the appeal for rain in the upper parts of the Trail was finally answered. What fell as I keyed this column wasn’t too heavy, but was sure welcome, and it settled the dusty issues on back country roads.
Winds of September, in a southerly rut for weeks, finally turned to a more prevailing northwest and ushered in showers of two varieties, one moisture-laden and the other, showers of tawny white pine needles. So the rush to recarpet the forest floor is under way as tree tops are being cleansed.
Full harvest moonlight captures the northland after we have barely opened October’s doors. If skies should be clear this coming weekend, there is nothing like the big orange sphere of month 10, when it clears the eastern hills of the territory.
With fall but a week old, pre-cold preparations have intensified around the Gunflint community. The attitude up this way seems to have always been about community and helping each other when a need arises. Whether home repair parts or manpower is needed, folks up this way just get it done.
Such was the case this past week as I was subdued by some surgery at a time when being laid up is not convenient. Good people came to the front. The boat got pulled in from the lake, and winterized. Then, a “magnificent seven” from down the road, via Twin Cities suburbia (Coon Rapids), muscled the dock onto dry land. Boy, am I grateful!
The gathering season continues for the small furry beings around here, and ‘intense’ has to be their watchword. It’s all business now.
I saw a fox the other day that had a tail fluffier than the girth of its body. With the fox tail being the body insulator during cold times, I’m wondering if the lushness of this one’s tassel might be an indication of the weather to come.
On the other hand, I’ve observed only a couple of those fuzzy caterpillars so far and their dark thick coats seem to be lacking. Maybe it is too early for them to be in full coat as the winter severity myth goes, or their winter-predicting appearance is reflecting something different than the fox tail.
The limitless skies were a backdrop for some fall eagle acrobatics over Wildersmith this past week. A couple and their young’un soared and squawked through the blue for a couple days, providing some great aerial viewing of this spectacular creature. It is hard to envision the wingspan being so vast when you see them scrolled tightly, high on a big pine perch.
Duck numbers in our neighborhood have been declining greatly over the past decade, so when a raft happens by, conversation turns to simulated quacks of joy in welcoming the feathery folk.
Just before our dock was brought ashore, we had a day when a mallard mamma and five adolescent children came by for a visit. The corn can came out and there was considerable joy in ducking for corn off the shore-side lake bottom.
Later on, something spooked mom and she sought out of sight shelter under the dock, spending the balance of the afternoon in its shadows. By evening, danger had apparently passed and they had departed.
Our return to the dock for the sunset caught their attention once again, and here they came, cruising in to spend the rest of the daylight in our company.
It was a step back in time for us and the friendly flock as we renewed acquaintances, if even for a brief visit. Now the dock is gone and their ducky thoughts will surely be turning to their winter vacation journey.
Keep on hangin’ on, and savor autumnal days!
Program:
Wildersmith on the Gunflint Sept. 23, 2009
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Our calendars say it’s fall, but atmospheric conditions continue to reflect summer in September. Mostly sunny skies have provided some delightful days for the unfolding of fall over the last three weeks, a perfect time for leaf-peeping expeditions.
However, there is some trepidation that goes along with the mild conditions that have been the rule. A continuing mini-drought in the north woods is cause for great concern.
Since Aug. 29, rainfall in the Wildersmith neighborhood as amounted to a meager 3/100ths of an inch. There may be areas of the region that have been blessed with a heavier shower or two, but for the most part, the territory is badly parched.
Our environment actually seems drier than early May 2007, when the Ham Lake tragedy was ignited. So it is nerve wracking to say the least, thinking that one carelessly discarded cigarette, an unattended campfire or some lightning could spark another nightmare. Wonder if burning bans shouldn’t be the order?
It would seem prudent that residents of the region should be running their wildfire sprinkler systems every few days to keep the immediate areas around their properties dampened down.
Dust on backcountry roads has covered the paralleling vegetation to an ugly degree. I’m afraid that an extended fall color show might be taking a hit. Leaves are drying and wilting to the last stages of life before their normal time, diminishing their usual colorful quaking.
Since we last met on the airwaves, the final hummingbird has departed the sweetness station above our deck. So dodging their flight patterns while out there is put on hold until next summer.
The tiniest and meanest of the flying critters, however, have been re-energized with our abnormal warmth. Those ornery black flies are thinking that it must be a new year and are bent on torture once again. It doesn’t take long to arouse their ire if one gets into disturbing soil or low brush. Come on Mamma N, we need a freeze!
A night or so ago, our evening dock time featured a Canadian goose landing on the far shores of Gunflint Lake. Enjoyment for us observers was enhanced by some apparent leadership confusion amongst the flock. The approach headed back and forth, around and about before finally sitting down on the wine-colored surface.
The process kind of reminded me of our current congressional situation in D.C., a lot of “honking” and floundering in different directions. To complete my analogy, after floating and squawking along the shore, the honkers lifted off. They soared and swooped a while longer before setting down once again. This time, landing was a bit farther away from their original position.
Darkness finally consumed the daylight and hid them from view, so one can only guess what happened next. I wonder if a new morning found them headed in another direction.
Recent bear calling cards confirm that the blueberry season is definitely over. Signs of nourishment now indicate that red is the berry color of choice. Raspberries and thimbleberries are gone too, so they must be after high bush cranberries or the low-hanging fruit of mountain ash trees.
On a recent trip to town, we followed one of the roly-poly ursine cubs down the road for a short distance. It sure was a cute little teddy in spite of knowing that it could grow up to be an annoyance some day. Then again, they only become vexations when we humans are about and invite alternatives to traditional bear pastimes. Guess maybe we might be considered the real annoyance.
Keep on hangin’ on, appeal to the rain gods, and savor some quick gold in them thar hills.
Program:
Wildersmith On the Gunflint Sept.16, 2009
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It has been two weeks since September took over and the Gunflint territory is still waiting for some fresh frosty air to greet our morning inhaling. In fact, temps have been some 10 to 15 degrees above normal. So the moose and I have been laying low.
I did commence with some firewood cutting for the winter 2010-2011. Although the area around here is extremely dry, there was enough humidity to bring on perspiring for the first warming phase of this wood-gathering process.
The rain gods have again forsaken this neighborhood of the Gunflint region, while other areas have been drenched during a couple clouded episodes.
The rain gods have again forsaken this neighborhood of the Gunflint region, while other areas have been drenched during a couple clouded episodes.
It would seem that wildfire danger should be in the extreme category, yet in more fortunate parts, the situation is judged to be only moderate. Hope residents and visitors continue to exercise GOOD judgment with campfire situations.
I don’t really know whether dry conditions are big a factor in the fall color evolution, but I do know that, dry or not, the deciduous gang along the Mile O’ Pine is bursting into splendor. Some maples and aspen have even begun to dispatch their gold and red tokens earthward.
Further, the coniferous cousins are showing yellow to brown needles from the previous year’s growth. It won’t be too much longer that a soft carpet of needles will be joining leaf litter already starting to accumulate under foot.
A few reports on unusual wild critter behavior have come my way. The first is in regard to a downy woodpecker that has an apparent sweet tooth. Some folks down on County Road 50 have one that has become a frequent visitor to their hummingbird feeder. I’m told that the usual insect collector has found a way to get its beak into the tiny nectar orifices and slurp away.
Guess it should be OK that the sweetness not go to waste, as there are few if any of the mini-helicopter-like birds left in the area. I wonder who is following who south, the geese or the hummingbirds.
A few days later, a rather large bear was observed getting some aquatic exercise. It is well known that bears can swim, but we don’t often see them working on their strokes. This one was on an endurance outing, having swum from the Canadian side of Gunflint Lake to the American side.
As is often the case, there were no border patrol officials around to check the ursine citizenship papers, but then again, who would be willing to challenge the entry anyway? Stepping on the rocky shore, it shook off and ambled into the woods.
I’ve shared before about the gourmet fox of the neighborhood. Now I have come across another woodsy being that has expanded consumption beyond the usual nuts and seeds.
There are two fine black cherry trees that reside at the bottom of the Wildersmith driveway. This year they are loaded and ripening fast. In recent days, noises have been coming from the branches and it turns out that it isn’t of the chirping variety. The strange “unck, unck, unck” turns out to be from a bunch of chipmunks.
There are two fine black cherry trees that reside at the bottom of the Wildersmith driveway. This year they are loaded and ripening fast. In recent days, noises have been coming from the branches and it turns out that it isn’t of the chirping variety. The strange “unck, unck, unck” turns out to be from a bunch of chipmunks.
They have been observed picking one cherry at a time and scampering off with delicate fruit. In another incident, one was seen stuffing its jowls to mump-like proportions before dashing off to winter quarters. These would have made some fine juice for northwoods jelly, but it appears they will be going to a good cause, the wild critter food bank.
In a final wild happening, I’m told that several loons have been seen gathering. This is another call of September. I’m sure loon conversation was about the annual itinerary for the soon-to-be trip south and east.
However, one remains around here as I’m still hearing its nightly conversation. Perhaps it is an adolescent that is still not able to taxi for take-off.
The “Taste of the Gunflint” tour last Saturday was another successful Gunflint community endeavor. A couple hundred visitors from not only around the county and state, but from coast to coast signed in at guest books at area lodges.
Fine fall weather prevailed as folks enjoyed volunteer prepared treats from the “Taste of the Gunflint” cookbook. And much socializing took place with cordial hospitality being the order of things among Gunflint Trail business owners and “Taste” volunteers welcoming tour visitors.
Proceeds from donation jars, local author book sales and Chik Wauk museum gift shop sales go toward continuing fundraising efforts for the museum’s completion. Thanks to all participating businesses, organizing volunteers and visitors for making this a great event.
Before we meet again on the radio, the equinox of autumn will have things in a due east-is-east and west-is-west alignment. The bid farewell to the season of growing will be made and trudge into winter will be welcomed.
Keep on hangin’ on, and savor the sights, sounds and smells of the season!
Program:
Wildersmith On the Gunflint Sept. 9, 2009
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Indian summer hit the north woods during the first week of month nine. And a perfect weekend greeted area residents and visitors as they celebrated the Labor Day holiday. Weather conditions were warmish, basically gorgeous.
Many seasonal folks were up for their final fling in the forest before closing down and seeking more southerly climes for the next six or seven months. So lake waters were a-rollin’ with man-made activity.
Winterization of summer cabins is beginning, a few docks have been relocated up on shore, water craft are headed for storage and some baby trees are getting their bud caps for winter predator protection. And wild critters that stay year round are busy harvesting survival things for a colder winter day.
Watching the neighborhood squirrel preparations is an exercise that could easily lull one into a state of exhaustion. The local rodents have been busy cutting down cedar tree seeds over the past week. The other morning I watched one dropping the little bunches as fast as its choppers could cut them loose.
Falling fast and furious, the ground was soon littered with what looked like a bucket full. A check later on found that all had been gathered and moved to winter storage. Later that day, I saw Mr./Ms. Squirrel taking one seed at a time from a white pine cone to an undisclosed location for safekeeping. It made trip after trip…must have slept well that night.
Just think of all the mileage that is put on those tiny legs getting each morsel to its neighborhood pantry. Further, they must have a mental database to match no others in order to find where they have put things on their thousands of jaunts.
Another squirrelly occurrence brought a laugh the other day. Knowing that these animals are almost solely seeds and nuts guys, I was surprised to catch one dipping into the Whiskey jacks’ gourmet cache of French fries at the Wildersmith feed trough.
The diminutive gnawer consumed two of the greasy bits before being discovered by the handsome birds in gray and black tuxedos. One fell swoop sent the French fry thief leaping into the nearest balsam tree with a starchy spud sticking out of its jaws like a cigar.
If pre-winter preps during the day aren’t enough, we heard what must have been a huge migration of geese pass over in the early darkness hours this past Saturday night. They were honking as if caught in an urban rush hour traffic jam.
Wondrous hues of yellow, orange and scarlet have intensified to embellish this early fall happening in the Mile O’ Pine maples, and at earth level, the lush ferns are golden to harvest brown in many places. September calls…all good things are showing signs of the times.
I’ve never seen a setting of the sun that I didn’t like. So deliberating on another or two over the past week is probably superfluous. Nevertheless, when one is so spectacular that it is spiritually uplifting, mention is justified.
Clouds, haze, smoke and the like are the medium to create astonishing opportunities for sun-drenched endings to daylight hours. The most recent extravaganza happened when a western sky seemed muted with humidity off the lake and a thin bank of advancing clouds.
When it seemed as though there would be nothing to ooh and aah about, the spirit of Sol exploded through the mist. With a peach to pink cast over half of the heavens, the reflection on shimmering Gunflint Lake waters looked like pink champagne as far as the eye could see.
The dusk-tinted water seemed to beckon for a toast to natural miracles in our peaceful northern paradise. So symbolically we raise glasses high to a “Taste of the Gunflint.” Sip of her beauty and revel in the majesty!
Yours truly will be hitting the Trail Saturday for a personal “Taste of the Gunflint.” Be reminded that activities up the Trail commence at 11 am and continue until 5 pm.
Keep on hangin’ on, and savor a Taste of the Gunflint.Indian summer hit the north woods during the first week of month nine. And a perfect weekend greeted area residents and visitors as they celebrated the Labor Day holiday. Weather conditions were warmish, basically gorgeous.
Program:
Wildersmith On The Gunflint Sept. 2, 2009
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October-like conditions send August a-packing. After an end-of-the-month drenching, the territory got some of that marvelous “see your breath” cold. In fact I got one report of the mercury hitting the 32-degree mark at a place along the Gunflint Lake shore this past Sunday, Aug. 30. The atmosphere surely warned us of things to come.
So here we are…off into the month of the full corn moon, the autumnal equinox and the color extravaganza. Suddenly we border country residents have come to the full realization that winter preparations can no longer be put on hold.
I have been amazed that one rather adult maple along the Mile O’ Pine has already reached its scarlet pinnacle. There are often many young maples that make the color exchange early, but this is a first for the larger specimens in our neighborhood.
Since the color transition is pretty much dependent upon declining amounts of sunshine time, I hope that the crimson beauty is not sick. Perhaps it has a kinship with yours truly, hoping to just get on with things and into the most beautiful season of all in the northland, white time.
Spider time in the woods is providing some intricate fiber art on clear dewy mornings. Arachnid spinners have woven miraculous silk-like networks throughout the forest east of the Wildersmith place. They are spinning in everyone else’s neighborhood too, and some of the design work might have been seen with frost on them if Jack paid a visit to other places in the territory. Wouldn’t that have been a thing of beauty!
Hearts go out to Tony and Carol Feiock, the folks on Seagull River that suffered another flaming tragedy to their place in the wilderness. They lost their wilderness home in the mayhem of the Ham Lake fire in 2007 and seeing it rise from those ashes must have been thrilling. But their dreams were dashed again on the night of Aug. 24. It is incomprehensible to think that such misfortune could strike in the same place twice. Prayers for strength go out to them in this time of devastation.
We at Wildersmith are enjoying a reunion with a gang of Whiskey Jacks (Canadian Jays). They have suddenly returned to the feed trough after taking a sabbatical from their usual wintertime hang-out. They have not lost their appetites for the finer nutritional elements such as pizza, leftovers from the great prime rib (fries included) at Trail Center and polish sausages.
Their eating frenzy each morning has even attracted one of those winged French fry-eating rats (a seagull). So I have been called upon several times to send this un-invited scarfer a flappin’ back to the lake.
The Gunflint Lake Property Owners Association held their annual meeting and picnic Aug. 21. It may not seem like any big deal, but for the sake of trivia buffs, it marked the organizations 40th birthday. Yes, that’s four decades! If there are any other lake or property groups along the Gunflint Trail that have been organized for a long time, I’d appreciate hearing about them.
With this edition of Wildersmith on the Gunflint, I too am celebrating an anniversary. It was seven years ago that penning this column began. Most of those years were with the local newspaper, but since the new owners sent me packing, I am thrilled to be a part of programming for our great community radio station. Thanks to all of you readers and listeners for putting up with me. So off we go into year eight, welcome aboard!
The fourth annual Gunflint Trail Historical Society picnic went off without a hitch this past Monday. On an absolutely magnificent northwoods day, 150 border country friends and neighbors gathered for an old-fashioned hot dog roast with all the trimmings.
The beautifully restored ChikWauk Lodge was stuffed to overflowing as people got their final look at the museum facility before artifacts and displays are brought in after snow melt next spring. Then the famous lodge will be packed with history of this fabled northwoods corridor.
As this first weekend of September rolls around, you are reminded that next Saturday (Sept. 12), the second annual “Taste of the Gunflint” hits the Trail.
So mark your calendar for that afternoon’s tour of the featured lodges: Rockwood, Loon Lake, and ChikWauk). Plenty of goodies can be expected as local culinarians present recipes from the past, all coming from the “Taste of the Gunflint” cookbook.
Keep on hangin’ on, and savor the whims of fall.
Program:
Wildersmith On The Gunflint Aug. 26, 2009
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The upper Gunflint territory got more welcome rain, and our brief sweaty summer session was broken. Several days of gray and wet gave way to a luscious next to last weekend in August.
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For some, summer ends after the Fourth of July, while for yours truly, the beginning of September officially kicks off the fall season. And we all know that the calendar makes it official in just over three weeks. So about any way you cut it, the northern growing season is nearly history.
Flora of summer-fall is lush after the moisture addition, and I’ve noted the cat-tails that line the Trail in swamps and bogs are fully developed, dark and swaying rhythmically in the breezes.
The water temp at the Wildersmith dock has already tumbled to 66, down from 70 a week ago, just as I predicted. Although, the area received nearly 3 1/4 inches of rain in the past 10 days, the water level on the DNR gauge here on Gunflint Lake has remained pretty much unvarying, with out-flow equaling input.
Apparently the parched watershed soaked up most of what has fallen. Many rivers and creeks remain precariously low. However, the wonderful little falls that dumps into Larch Creek, just south of the Seagull guard station, is gushing once again.
If one is a regular in this part of the universe, you know that clear nights are starlit to the max. Over the cool past weekend, the cosmic lighting has been nothing short of miraculous. The Milky Way streamed on endlessly, and although there was no bonus from aurora borealis, twinkles decorated the heavens like it was the holiday season.
The glory of the nighttime sky is further enhanced as the noises in the black at earth level can add both calm and suspense to the northern aura. Such is the setting when you are in the right place at the right time.
A recent late-night silence was broken with loon calls from the darkness. The mournful wails echoed from shore to shore and sparked intrigue in regard to what might have prompted the wild communication. Was trouble imminent, was the mate away or did it just feel a need to vocalize? Whatever the reason, nothing in the late night is more enchanting. By the way, I wonder when these marvelous creatures sleep. I hear them at night and see them cruising for nourishment during the day. They must be exhausted.
Another natural wonderment is the amount of nectar that hummingbirds consume. Since they have returned from the nesting experience, their appetites seem insatiable. The sweet bottle hanging above the Smith deck gets emptied in two to three days. It makes you wonder how they can dart about when they perch and gulp from daylight to darkness.
At any gathering of folks this time of year, the conversation always gets around to berry-picking experiences. The stories and thrills from blueberry hills are never ending and often hilarious. From brags about collecting cups to buckets and whether fruit is plump or puny, discussion usually extends to that of sharing the blue with a bear or two.
A fellow that lives not far away told me that he was about to go into his favorite patch when suddenly there was a bear. With discretion being the better part of valor, he retreated and watched as the bear sat down. The crop was so prolific that the bear didn’t move other than to just twist around in its spot devouring only what it could reach.
The fellow returned later to find that the big teddy had eaten in a circle surrounding the place where it placed its posterior. That’s what I call easy pickins’.
Another report has come in that a mamma and her cubs were once again treated to a bear buffet. It occurred in a garage left open down on County Road 50. This is the same place where a bear or two consumed corn and sunflower seeds a few weeks ago. Like people, bears anxiously return when they find a fine eatery to their liking.
The untamed picnic was a no-harm, no-foul situation as the ursine family consumed to their liking, even posed for a photo op, and departed peacefully. The garage door was then closed.
A more domesticated picnic is scheduled for members and friends of the Gunflint Trail Historical Society this coming Monday. It will be held at the Chik Wauk Lodge beginning at noon. Food and drink will be provided, but chairs will not, so bring a lawn chair and plan to enjoy the magic of this special place. I’m told that bears have not been invited.
Keep on hangin’ on, and savor the thoughts of autumn!
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Program:
Wildersmith On The Gunflint Aug.19, 2009
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| WildersmithMixdown082009.mp3 | 8.02 MB |
The cool trek through summer stalled out last week. I’m sure that those who had been whining about it being cold for the past several months are smiling now.
For the moose and me, though, about one day of that 80-degree stuff is more than enough, but the territory was blessed with several. So the Alces alces in the area are holed up in the balsam shade and cool swamp waters, out of sight but not out of mind. Meanwhile yours truly is remaining in sedentary mode until this misery passes.
Guess I must have embarrassed the rain gods when I harangued them last week about their wimpy distribution of rain around here. No sooner had my remarks hit the airwaves than a consequential dose was received and several lesser measures were added over last weekend. So we woodsy folks are thankful, and ask that we not be forgotten for such a long stretch in the future.
Water temperatures spiked up to the 70-degree mark at the Wildersmith dock, the warmest of the season thus far. This could be the top as the degrees start to trickle away about this time of year. The summer of ’08 saw a warmest water temp of 76, and that lasted for several weeks.
The friendly fox that was hanging out here for a few weeks has flown the coop. Can’t imagine that it would leave when it got plenty of epicurean treats, but the ways of the wild are unexplainable most of the time. Bet it’ll be back though.
There have been several spectacular sunsets here on the Gunflint of late. Those steamy days have provided the atmosphere for some peachy heavens just as Sol is dipping behind the northwestern granite.
One such sunshine departure cast a rainbow on the waters. As the gaseous ball was settling down a night or two ago, it reflected a red-hot iron bar on the unusually calm lake, from horizon to our dock.
A passing boat provided the wake and Sol did the rest. Beams caught the rolling waters and a masterful display of liquid hues surged to the shore. The spectacle of Mother Nature that usually arches across our universe was presented this time as heaven on a wilderness lake. What a gorgeous tribute to another day in paradise.
Another great day on the Trail happened last Saturday as the mid-trail property owners held their 12th annual August showdown. The flea market, boutique and live auction netted a hefty $5,625. The 2009 grand prize quilt ticket was drawn and the winner was an elated Natalie Rogers from the UP of Michigan. My how those tickets get around!
This amount, when added to the over $14,000 generated at the July canoe races, totals just under $20,000 added to the support coffers of our great Gunflint Trail Volunteer Fire and Rescue teams.
Congratulations to all those splendid mid-trail event organizers and thanks to all that contributed to the success of another extraordinary Gunflint community effort!
Work continues on the building and trail system up at Chik Wauk Museum and Nature Center. Several days of volunteer efforts along with a crew of MCC (Minnesota Conservation Corps) have sped up trail clearing. Several interior chores have been completed in the lodge, with carpet scheduled for installation this week.
Folks can check out the progress at the annual Gunflint Trail Historical Society picnic Monday, Aug. 31 at noon, meeting and program to follow. Mark your calendars, bring your lawn chairs and have a good time with friends and neighbors.
Keep on hangin’ on, and savor the sweetness of summer-fall!
Program: