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Wildersmith on the Gunflint - June 28
-Wildersmith on the Gunflint by Fred Smith
June 28, 2019
June has been in a tail spin, winding down to conclusion as the first full week of summer is into the books.
Welcoming July, the universe is within days of reaching the half way point in the year nineteen. It would seem we need not be reminded, but America celebrates its two hundred forty-third birthday before we meet again on the radio. Hopefully, all citizens can come around for at least one day of peace and togetherness!
Speaking further of July 4th Gunflint Trail residents will always remember this day of infamous weather conduct across the territory. Many are already reflecting the day twenty years ago when the evil “derecho” changed the forest and lives for decades, if not forever. While “Mother Nature” is hard at work in regeneration, folks who endured the terror will never forget the day several hundred thousand acres of forest were flattened beyond belief. We cannot celebrate the event, but cherish the thought there were no fatalities in spite of many injuries. Celebration is in order however, as we remember and give thanks for the hundreds of acts of heroism during this tragic time in Gunflint History.
Times of reverence and remembering can be shared at Chik-Wauk over the next couple weeks by visiting the Nature Center where many residents have preserved memories of the “Blowdown.” In addition, there will be video reflections documenting the aftermath.
In the interest of the Gunflint Community Spirit, it would be nice to take a moment in the early afternoon of July 4th to commemorate the day a forest story was rewritten.
Speaking of the forest in another vane, June has not been too kind to the upper Trail in terms of precipitation allotments. Feeder streams have slowed to a trickle and lake levels have been dropping.
The landscape was getting pretty dry until the heavens finally opened up with a timely dose last Sunday. It was a billion dollar rain in terms of tempering wild fire danger, and in this neighborhood, it happened with no lightning or strong winds to compromise wild land character.
Meanwhile temps have been just delightful, making for some spectacular days and cool comfy nights. The moose and I can only wish this to continue as our day light minutes start dwindling toward fall.
Many activities are on tap up at the end of the Trail Museum Campus. The Nature Center programming continues Sunday at 2:00 pm. This week features David Hakensen of the MNHS. Mr. Hakensen will present stories about the Hoover’s (Helen & Ade) and their life on Gunflint Lake. Author, Helen is remembered for her books reflecting times in un-organized territory.
Further scheduling for the week includes the regular Tuesday “Kids’ Day (11 to 4:00); The USFS Tuesday presentation at 2:00; and of course, the temporary “Blowdown” exhibit mentioned earlier.
Folks will want to mark their calendar for the next Sunday, July 7 for the grand opening celebration of the Watercraft Exhibit Building at Chik-Wauk from 11:00am to 4:00 pm. Cake, Coffee and Lemonade to be served.
Whereas wild neighborhood animal activity has been quiet around Wildersmith, I’m elated to say the black fly assaults have seemingly diminished. However, nipping critter activity is building among the mosquito forces. And to take itching matters to the next level, “no seeums” AKA “punkies” or “midges” will soon add to our itching irritation, even through our screened windows.
Another biting bug trivia tells there are up to100 species of “no seeums” in North America. It makes me wonder how entomologists know this, if one cannot “seeum?” How can we be so blessed?
For WTIP, this is Wildersmith, on the Gunflint Trail, where every day is great, as we delight in natural connections!
In the Spirit of Medicine - Dr. Arne Vainio "Promise of a Warrior"
-Dr. Arne Vainio is an enrolled member of the Mille Lacs Band of Ojibwe and a family practice doctor on the Fond Du Lac reservation in Cloquet. His essays on life, work, medicine and spirit are published in "News From Indian Country”.
In this segment, Dr. Vainio recounts his conversations with an 80-year-old soldier about his determination to keep a promise.
Wildersmith on the Gunflint - June 21
-Wildersmith on the Gunflint by Fred Smith June 21, 2019
It’s timely the Gunflint Trail is finally fully engulfed in summer as we celebrate the Solstice. Once green with envy of other places already into the summertime look, the territory has caught up.
The quiet charm of back country roads is never more evident than passing through one of our green tunnels of trees. Like many other off-trail pathways, the Mile O Pine is regal in the shade of its emerald crowned canopy with occasional spears of sunshine spotting one’s way.
Recently, I read an interesting article telling of a two decade body of research supporting the idea that trees have a calming effect on humans. Whereas we who reside in the forest already know of these behavioral phenomena, any numbers of places where blighted areas have been “cleaned and greened” are showing remarkable reductions in unacceptable societal activities.
So even though the cause and effect would seem rather difficult to grasp, it’s hard to argue trees are not critically important. Beyond lakes and challenging terrain, perhaps trees are the major reason so many folks find this place so enticing; picture a canoe, calm water and trees, a zillion of them!
One more note regarding the woods around us, as the leaf out is now complete, I continue fascinated by the candles of new growth on red and white pines. It seems these aspiring buds to branches might add an inch per day, and soon will be upwards of a foot or more further toward the heavens by summers end. Do you suppose one could hear them grow during darkness hours as Ag people claim of their corn on hot summer nights?
After twenty years of life in border country, I still marvel at those Canadian sunsets over Gunflint Lake, as do many others in the Gunflint Community along their favorite lake shore. However, I must confess being no longer in the mandatory work force, I do not often rise with the birds to greet a new days dawning.
Unusual as it may seem, I happened awake last Sunday morning to see a most spectacular sunrise. It might even parallel the grandeur of those memorable day ending scenes. With just the right convergence of gauzy clouds, “Sol” set the heavens on fire, from its eastern most point of entry as far as the eye could see to the west of Wildersmith.
I’ve truly never seen anything like it, although such cosmic occurrences have eons of history, I’m just seldom awake to be a part of this brilliance. The flaming redness was short lived as the solar power burned though the celestial mist, but for a few brief minutes I was in awe!
I’ve been hearing several reports about a momma moose and her twins up toward end of the Trail. Perhaps there is more than one such iconic threesome up in that neck of the woods, but the Smith’s hadn’t observed any of them until we recently happened upon a traffic stoppage where this big old gal and her young’uns were the reason. Those cocoa brown babies were ever so curious watching momma grab munchies from the swamp bottom. What a photo op for several lucky Trail visitors, “real moose.”
There’s a notion black flies might be dwindling a bit, but I can’t see it’s happening around this place. For the record, a little research I found declares there are 150 species of black flies in North America, some of which don’t bite. It’s my guess that most of the biting varieties have been hovering right outside our back door based on the welts on my body, eee gads these things are ornery!
A reminder from the Chik-Wauk Campus is calling all kids on Tuesday, the 25th. It’s Kids’ day at the Nature Center from 11:000am to 4:00pm for youngsters under 18 and all are welcomed free of charge. Staff will have a variety of hands-on activities all related to the natural world around Chik-Wauk. A parent or guardian must accompany children while engaged at the Nature Center.
Also on Tuesday, as are all Tuesdays through August 20, USFS naturalists will present themed topics on the North woods. These events will take place on the Museum front porch from 2:00 to 3:00 pm. All are invited!
A sad note has been received on the passing of one of our Gunflint Trail Neighbors. Ron Hemstad passed from our midst last Saturday evening after begin hospitalized in the Twin Cities with some lingering health issues.
The Hemstad’s have a cabin on the Mile O Pine while one of their daughters, Nancy and husband Dave Seaton are long time owners of Hungry Jack Outfitters. Ron, a career attorney, along with Betty, played a key role in developing the organizational charter of the Gunflint Trail Historical Society. Gunflint Community condolences are extended to Betty, his children, family and many neighborhood friends.
On a happier note, breaking news from the staff at Chik-Wauk, the baby loon and parents have re-appeared, only having moved to another, safer bay, along the Sag Lake corridor to the west. My apologies for blaming the bothersome eagle
For WTIP, this is Wildersmith, on the Gunflint Trail, where every day is great, in the cool, calming North woods!
DNR's Carol Hall - Talks Turtles
-North Shore Morning host, Mark Abrahamson, talks with Minnesota DNR Herpetologist, Carol Hall about - turtles on the move.
Superior National Forest Update - June 14
-Superior National Forest Update – June 13, 2019
Hi, my name is Lillie Oravetz, and I’m a seasonal naturalist working this summer with the Superior National Forest, and this is the National Forest Update – information on all sorts of things for people visiting the Forest.
The reason I’m here this week is that this is the start of our summer Resort Naturalist Programs. The Superior has been providing naturalist programs with the cooperation of area resorts and businesses since the 1980s. Currently, the program is cooperatively funded by the Forest Service and Visit Cook County. The programs themselves are given at several of the resorts along the shore as well as at Hedstrom’s Lumber Mill, Sawbill Campground, and the Grand Marais Municipal Campground. Although programs are given at specific host resorts, they are open to everyone: people staying at the resort, people staying elsewhere, local residents – all are welcome. There’s a wide variety of topics from bogs to stars to bears and everything in between.
Campfire programs start at 7:30 and generally last from one to two hours, and morning programs usually start at either 10 or 10:30. A complete schedule can be found on our website, on the Visit Cook County website, at Forest Service offices and the Grand Marais Visitor Information Center, or at any of the participating resorts. These are all fun programs with something for people both young and old, so we hope to see you at a campfire or on a hike soon!
As our roads continue to firm up, travel has gotten easier. Our road system is in good shape right now, although on some of the more heavily traveled roads there can be some areas of washboarding. You can expect to encounter logging trucks on the Tofte District along the Trappers Lake Road, the Perent Lake Road, The Grade, Cook County 27, and Cook County 8. On the Gunflint District, trucks will be using the Lima Grade, the South Brule Road, the Greenwood Road, the Firebox Road, Blueberry Road, Cascade River Road, Pike Lake Road, and Cook County 7.
Our spring prescription burning has been completed. There are still two summer burns planned for later in July - as always, weather depending. People need to continue to be diligent with campfires, particularly in the Seagull area which has not received as much rain recently as other areas. Make sure always that any fire is dead out and cool to the touch before you leave the area.
If you have a hummingbird feeder, you may notice that in the next few weeks, fewer birds will be visiting. While hummers need to tank up on sugary nectar for the energy needed to migrate, they need more protein to successfully lay eggs and raise chicks. That means that right now, the birds are concentrating more on eating insects than on visiting your feeder. You’ll still have hummers, but they won’t be visiting as often as earlier in the spring. With fewer birds and warmer temperatures, it is easy for the sugar water in feeders to go bad. Change the sugar water at least once a week, and whenever you see cloudiness in the water. Feed a three to one mix of water to sugar, and don’t add any color to the mix.
Be sure to look for a naturalist program schedule! This weekend includes programs at the campfire ring at Cascade Lodge and Chateau LeVeaux on Friday and at Sawbill Lake Campground and Bluefin Bay on Saturday. We hope to see you there! Until next week, this has been Lillie Oravetz with the National Forest Update.
Wildersmith on the Gunflint - June 14
-Wildersmith on the Gunflint by Fred Smith June 14, 2019
It seems unimaginable, but our north woods universe is at the half-way mark of month six. In a couple days the full “Strawberry Moon” (Ode’imini Giizis) will be lighting up our lives. While by the time we next meet, we’ll also be celebrating the solstice of summer.
It’s just impossible to think we will be seeing our longest period of sun time next Friday, and then the slow trek in an opposite direction begins. Guess we can be thankful this astronomical happening is barely noticeable, but then again, based on how rapidly June’s first half went by, is it really as passive as it seems?
So next weekend we can call it summer and the territory got a warm-up preview for a couple days last week. From this old guy’s point of view, that hot stuff got under my skin pretty quick.
The heat was enough to spurn some new blooming in the yard though and this is good. Forget-me-nots, Columbine and wild strawberry petals popped out overnight as well as a few blossoms on the Honeycrisp tree. Up and down back country roads both Pin Cherry and Juneberry flowers have burst onto the scene mimicking a look of branch coated flakes from a season past.
The only thing to temper enjoyment of our floral color exhibit was the big warm-up brought on the first real influx of “Skeeters.” Coupled with their nipping black fly cousins and other un-named irritating pests, life outside of netting hasn’t been the most comfortable. June being designated the month of the “Strawberry Moon” by our Ojibwe neighbors, a gal down in the mid-Trail area has labeled “June, as bug month”, appropriate to say the least.
Another note on creepy things has many folks complaining about unusual high numbers of those big black ants. All this unpleasantness however will pass and the beauty of many other aspects of life in wild territory will get us through this time of welts and itching.
Plenty of moose sightings have been brought to my attention over the past week including my own observation of long eared juvenile in a Trailside swamp. Another lady from over on Wash-out Road had the “heebie jeebies” scared out of her recently when one stumbled out from the woods in front of her vehicle. Then the obstinate beast proceeded to not allow her passage by taking its half the road out of the middle.
Meanwhile, a couple down the road report a cross-fox has been making nightly visits for trail cam photo ops. And the Smith’s experienced a first bear sighting along the upper Trail in the past few days. Another report from the director at Chik-Wauk tells of and uncomfortable meeting with an upper Trail cinnamon Bruno who’s been hanging around several places.
A birthing announcement came from the same gal at the Museum Campus on June 6 with the Loon egg hatching, just one egg I’m told. Apparently the new family was doing well after they vacated the nest platform until breaking news four days later revealed the parents were heard calling and more recently observed swimming around without baby being on board.
When it appeared the Loon’s had won this natural survival encounter to extend a new generation into being, another element of creation (likely an Eagle) had a sad, but final say in the predator/prey scheme of things.
Speaking of an eagle, this segues right into the first Nature Center Sunday program of the season on the Chik-Wauk Campus. The program will begin at 2:00pm with a special presentation on Minnesota’s Raptors. Chris Tolman will be the presenter and is said to have some live raptors as part of her program. Admission to this birds of prey event is free, but donations of programming appreciation are accepted.
Threatening skies and rain didn’t squelch excitement for the annual shrimp boil last Sunday. If you didn’t make it, you missed another great sampling of southern cuisine in the North Country setting.
Thanks to the Schloot’s from Cross River Lodge for putting together yet another scrumptious feed. Kudos is also extended to the GTHS and the Volunteer Fire Department for the organizational details along with Voyageur Brewing Co. and many Gunflint Community bakers for their contributions to the bake sale part of the event’s festivities.
For WTIP, this is Wildersmith, on the Gunflint Trail, where every day is great, as the Gunflint Community celebrates each and every one.
YMCA Update - June 10
-North Shore Morning host, Jana Berka gets the YMCA Update from Cook County Community YMCA, Branch Executive Director, Emily Marshall.
Northern Sky - Deane Morrison June 8 - 21
-NORTHERN SKY
by Deane Morrison
June 8-21 2019
In the second two weeks of June, planets and stars are on the move. But the sun seems to be standing still, as it always does for about two months around each solstice, a word that literally means “sun standing still.” The summer solstice arrives at 10:54 a.m. on Friday, the 21st. At that moment, the sun will be over the Tropic of Cancer, and an observer in space would see the Earth lighted from the Antarctic Circle up to the North Pole, then beyond to the Arctic Circle on the dark side of our planet.
In the west, Mercury has popped into the evening sky. Mercury never gets very high, but if you look at nightfall from night to night, with binoculars if necessary, you may be able to see it climb away from the west-northwestern horizon. It heads straight for Mars, which is extremely dim, and on the 18th it passes only about half a moon width above the red planet. Above and to the right of the planets are the Gemini twins Pollux, the brighter one, and Castor. After their close encounter, Mars and Mercury go their separate ways. And all these objects get lost in the sunset by the end of June.
On the 10th, we lap Jupiter in the orbital race. At this moment Jupiter is said to be at opposition, because it’s on the opposite side of Earth from the sun and thus opposite the sun in the sky. At opposition, an outer planet rises around sunset and stays up all night. Jupiter is a brilliant beacon, and it rises in the southeast right behind the constellation Scorpius. The scorpion’s heart is Antares, a gigantic red star a little below and west of Jupiter. Saturn follows Jupiter into the sky by about two hours.
The evening of the 15th, a bright waxing moon appears between and above Jupiter and Antares. The evening of the 18th, a bright waning moon rises right below Saturn. For the next several days, Jupiter and Saturn get to shine against a darker sky at nightfall because the moon rises later each night while they rise earlier.
In the east, look for the Summer Triangle of bright stars. The brightest is Vega, in the constellation Lyra, the lyre of the mythical Greek musician Orpheus. With binoculars you can easily see the parallelogram of stars that outline the body of the lyre. Vega is only about 25 light-years away, and it has a great claim to fame, thanks to Earth’s habit of wobbling on its axis like a top. This wobbling makes the North Pole point to different stars in sequence as it traces out a circle every 26,000 years. The North Pole now points toward Polaris, but once it pointed toward Vega, and in about 12,000 more years, Vega will again be the north star.
When the sky gets dark, Vega and Jupiter form a big, bright triangle with the brilliant star Arcturus, in Bootes, the herdsman. Arcturus is west of Vega and marginally brighter. Grab a star map and look between Vega and Arcturus. Next to Vega is the upside-down form of Hercules, and next to Hercules is a semicircle of stars called Corona Borealis, the northern crown.
The night of the 16th to 17th, the moon takes a low trajectory across the night sky and reaches fullness at 3:31 a.m. The low trajectory happens because a full moon is always opposite the sun in the sky. Therefore, when we’re this close to the summer solstice and our hemisphere is tilting strongly toward the sun, it must also tilt away from a full moon, leaving it low in the sky.
Deane Morrison writes the Minnesota Starwatch column for the University of Minnesota’s Minnesota Institute for Astrophysics.
Superior National Forest Update - June 7
-Superior National Forest Update – June 6, 2019
Hi, this is Renee Frahm. Visitor information specialist on the Superior National Forest, and, very appropriately, this is the National Forest Update, information for visitors to the Forest. We are turning the corner into summer, leaves are growing, wildflowers are blooming, birds are singing, and people are out hiking, camping, fishing, and paddling.
For getting out into the Forest, I’m happy to say that the road system is finally drying out and road restrictions are being lifted a little at a time. As a result, travel in the Forest should be a little easier than it has been, but also as a result, log hauling has begun in a few spots. On the Gunflint District, there will be hauling on the Greenwood Road and Blueberry Road with harvest operations beginning off of Cascade River Road. On the Tofte District, expect trucks on the Trappers Lake Road and the Sawbill Landing area. Despite the drying roads, we have still been unable to get into repair the washout on the Trout Lake access road, so that road is still closed to travel.
ATV trails are drying out as well. This weekend is the annual ‘Ride Free’ weekend where the DNR waives the need for a recreational ATV registration, and is a great time for out of state riders to try the trails. Be aware though that there are trails and sections of trails which are still closed. Check the DNR website for trail closures, and follow posted closure notices. When using an ATV in the national forest, be sure to have a copy of the latest Motor Vehicle Use Map. It is the source of information on which roads are open for ATV use, with the map superseding all but temporary closure signage on the ground. The easiest way to use the map is to download it onto your phone, and use a wayfinding app such as Avenza to track your way through the Forest. Downloads are available on our website.
This weekend is “Take a kid fishing weekend”. Together with the Minnesota DNR, the Soil and Water Conservation District and the Forest Service there is a free event at the Mink lake Beach this Saturday, June 8th beginning at 9:00 a.m. and goes until noon. If you are interested in teaching your 5-12 year old how to fish, call the Gunflint Ranger District and sign up. The number is 387-1750. They will provide lunch and water and do have some poles and life jackets available. There are limited supplies, so if you do have your own fishing pole, bring it along.
Last week, fire crews were able to successfully complete several prescribed fires. Prescribed fire helps to reduce the chances of wildfire in an area by using up fuel, and also controls undergrowth – which means that the 800 acres burned in our prescribed fires this spring should be great for blueberries in the coming years. As the forest dries, the crews are shifting to doing fuels reduction with saws in the East Bearskin and Brule River area. You may hear sawing in that area, but we are working with contractors to minimize noise impacts. Unfortunately, with the drying forest, the potential for wildfire increases. This is somewhat offset by the leafing out of deciduous trees and the growth of plants on the forest floor, but it is a good idea to keep an eye on the fire danger rating. Both our district offices have big signs with Smokey Bear pointing to the fire danger rating. You should always be careful with fire, but when the fire danger is above moderate, you should be extra careful. It is Smokey’s 75th birthday this year, and I don’t think the bear wants to celebrate by having a wildfire.
Since it is his 75th, we are celebrating in other ways all year. Stop by the Tofte or Gunflint ranger station and you can take a selfie with Smokey, pick up some coloring sheets for the kids, or even buy some Smokey items! Remember, only you can prevent wild fires!
Until next time, enjoy the forest, catch a few fish, and watch a few birds. This has been Renee Frahm with the National Forest Update.
Wildersmith on the Gunflint - June 7
-Wildersmith on the Gunflint by Fred Smith
June 7, 2019
It seems odd, but not too surprising, I’m scooping the Gunflint Trail and one week of the new month has already passed us by. When I last reported it was May, guess I missed a week somehow.
With summer un-officially declared on Memorial Day weekend, the season is pretty much in full swing now with the school year ending for local students. Further, confirmation is seen in the Gunflint forest with leaf out complete and snow now gone from along the Mile O Pine.
The magnificence of this wild territory is borne out in the rituals of each season, with autumns’ collage of color, winters’ white and now summer green. A drive along the Trail this time of year seems so striking after the mono of winter. What a contrast between the bright deciduous leaves and deep green of the coniferous forest as a back-drop to sky blue water and heavens. A scan across our rugged landscape presents a glowing penetration of magical chlorophyll revival.
Another aspect of our turning green has caught forest folk’s attention. There’s something in the air and it isn’t the “Sound of Music.” I’m talking tree pollen. It’s as if we’re having an invisible dust storm. The hard to see collection on everything forest is most easily observed when one gets into the vehicle and has to turn on the windshield wipers to whisk the chartreuse powder away. My take on this springtime happening is the stuff is nearly as annoying as black flies. Luckily allergic reactions for yours truly are not a problem with this component of the natural world.
Atmospheric conditions over the past week have been on the verge of being a bit more “summer-ish.” Not too surprising though, a few mornings on June’s opening days found us near frost at Wildersmith, necessitating the comfort of warmth from the wood burning stove.
The other factor of Gunflint weather had been AWOL, and the area was in need of a precipitation re-fill. Fortunately, the rain gods broke loose with a nice rain in the last few days improving a crunchy situation.
A trifecta of activities going on up the Trail, highlight this second weekend of month six. To kick things off, the annual Boundary Waters Expo commences its two day run at 9:00 am Saturday with a full schedule of events concluding with a bonfire and speaker as the sun begins its descent. Then on Sunday, more activities with speakers, exhibits and things to see and learn take off at 10:30 and run until mid-afternoon at 2:30. This has always been a fun time for wilderness enthusiasts with notable outdoor experts sharing insights, the best and newest in gear exhibits and a gathering of friends exchanging wild land experiences.
The BW Expo concludes just in time for attendees to trek on up to end of the Trail for the annual Shrimp Boil. The event is a fundraiser sponsored by the Gunflint Trail Historical Society to benefit operations at the Chik-Wauk Museum Campus. Beginning at 4:00 pm and running until 6:00, it will be held at the Seagull Lake Community Center. In addition to the scrumptious dinner fixins’, a bake sale will be going on in a dining room corner with area sweet treat artisans donating their goods for purchase. All Gunflint Community residents and visitors are welcome.
If this isn’t enough, activities spill over into Monday, June 10 as the GTHS has its first membership gathering of the summer. Held at the Seagull Lake Community Center, it will be the annual meeting, commencing at 1:30. Following the Society business review and election of new Trustees, long time mid-trail resident Ina Huggenvik will be sharing historical perspectives – titled “One Man’s Dream.” Sweets, coffee and conversation will follow. All current members and wannabe members are invited.
From the wild neighborhood, folks up the hill from Wildersmith had a “Bruno” come for a morning deck-side visit a few days ago. The stopover was brief and with no reported bear shenanigans. At Wildersmith, we are still tolerating “Woody” the chuck. The skittish critter played peek-a-boo with Mrs. Wildersmith the other day from under the nearby wood shed. Then during a recent task up at Chik-Wauk, I came across the calling card from a moose. While finding such is not too unusual, this scene differed in that the lumpy sample was left on top of an over turned boat near the Water Craft Exhibit Building.
Another update from the Loon’s nest near the Chik-Wauk Campus, finds the iconic Minnesota couple hanging in there amidst harassment from both annoying black flies and a bothersome eagle. If they are able to survive these nasty assaults, chick hatching should occur anytime during the next few days.
In closing this week, a HELP WANTED posting has been extended throughout the territory from the GTHS. Help is needed for supervision in any of the three visitor facilities on the Chik-Wauk campus this 2019 season. Employment can come in the order of either full (up to 30 hours per week) or part-time {flexible job sharing (6 hour days) with others}. If interested see the Chik-Wauk on Facebook or Boreal.org for more details and application filing.
For WTIP, this is Wildersmith, on the Gunflint Trail, where every day is great, in the…”sum…sum…summertime!”